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August 27, 2010

Spring/Summer Wrap-up, Part 2

Check out the Spring/Summer Restaurant Wrap-up, part 1 for my 10 second reviews on Adsum, Koo Zee Doo, Paesano’s, and more!

Hardena: You really can’t beat a place that serves up a mountain of food for $6.  They also had a fish curry that I absolutely gobbled up, and I am not typically a fish fan.  Follow your instincts on what looks good, or let the guy guide you.  Or bring a friend, and try 6 dishes for $12.  Thanks, Mark, for the rec.

M restaurant

M Restaurant: It’s an incredibly cute space — a quiet courtyard, set off from the street, with a little garden.  Now that it’s cool enough to consider sitting outside without getting heatstroke, it would be a great place for drinks and snacks.  None of the food was memorable in any way when we were there, so I’m happy to hear they’ve changed chefs and menus.  Let me know what you think if you go by!

Amis: I seriously never recommend Italian places.  So, take this with all due seriousness.  I have recommended it to people, and I would go back.  This probably translates, if you normally dig Italian, to: you will find this restaurant mind-blowingly delicious.  I thoroughly enjoyed everything we ordered (the rice balls were my particular favorite.)  Also, the people-watching was great.  I was very amused by the guy sitting next to us bragging to his date about how he was a regular, and knew all the best dishes, and she should just let him order for her.  Then he ordered exactly what we had gotten.

photo.jpeg

El Rey: It’s fun.  It’s kitschy.  The chilaquiles were good.  The enchiladas were delicious.  It was cheaper than El Vez, but even louder.  How loud?  My waitress repeated my order back to me, and it was loud enough that I couldn’t hear her confirm that she had heard me wrong.  Oh well.  The carnitas tacos I ended up with were tasty enough; if you actually had the gorditas, tell me if I missed out.  I’d probably go back if I were nearby, but wouldn’t make a special trip for it.

Maru Global: Oh, Maru Global, I wanted to like you so much.  I love takoyaki!  I want so badly for there to be non-sushi Japanese restaurants in Philly!  But after you made me and my co-workers wait FORTY minutes from ordering to food on the table, at lunch no less, and offered up not so much as an apology, I will not be back.

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under Helen dine wrapup at 12:21am  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/1017979708/ss-wrapup2
August 23, 2010

Greensgrow Week 13

csa week 13

This week’s share contained:

  • Niagara White Grapes - Linvilla Orchards, Media, PA
  • Watermelon - Lancaster County, PA
  • Heirloom Tomatoes - Reineer Family Farms, Lancaster, PA
  • Red Bell Peppers - Lancaster County, PA
  • Collard Greens - Flaim Farms, Vineland, PA
  • Golden Zucchini - Landisdale Farms, Jonestown, PA
  • Organic Beets - Lancaster Farm Fresh, Lancaster County, PA
  • Hot and Sweet Peppers - Lancaster County, PA
  • Red and Yellow Onions - Lancaster County, PA
  • Herdsman Cheddar-Style Cheese - Cherry Grove Farms, Lawrenceville, PA
  • Eggs, eggs, eggs!

First off, nothing like half a BILLION eggs being recalled to make you feel good about your CSA eggs.  I will be enjoying my over-easy eggs with extra relish for the next few weeks. 

This week also had a couple of major YUM! moments.  Bryan’s comment on the grapes: “These grapes are delicious.  They don’t even taste like grapes!”  The Herdsman cheese called to me as soon as I saw it, and man, sometimes you can judge a book by its cover.  Delicious.  So buttery and rich.

But the preggie blues are getting to me.  I had to divest myself of the collards, beets and zucchini; I just know I’m not going to have the energy to do something with them.  Even the peppers are wearing me out.  So you know what that means — share some recipe ideas (preferably ones Bryan can make for me!)

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under csa 2010 Helen at 10:29pm  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/1001183337/greensgrow-week-13
August 12, 2010

Spring/Summer restaurant wrap-up

I cannot tell a lie.  Being pregnant has definitely reduced the number of places I write full-on reviews for.  But I do leave the house, more often than you might guess from the posts of late.  Here are some 10-second reviews of spots I’ve hit this spring and summer.

adsum pickled watermelon

Adsum: Their foie gras poutine sparked a heated debate over which was the superior over-the-top fry dish, that or Village Whiskey’s short rib fries.  (Me: poutine, Bryan: VW.)  The fried chicken was tasty, but Rick Nichols had me expecting mind-blowing.  The pickled watermelon is the distillation of all things summer, so go grab a drink and snack at one of their outdoor tables!

Sampan: Their pan-asian fusion food was fine.  Maria Valetta from Sips, Bites and Sites raved about their ramen, which I am hot to try when it returns to the menu come fall.  But none of the dishes created a burning desire for a return trip, and the world’s most overly solicitous waiter made me feel like my dinner for two was fast on its way to a dinner for 3.

Koo Zee Doo: This was the last place Bryan took me for a date before our wedding, which may have burnished its glow, but I thought this place just had such a warm and wonderful vibe.  They were doing lively trade with couples, larger groups… I even saw a few kids there.  Being portuguese, the menu is fairly fish-centric, but the Bife à Portuguesa (steak, fried eggs, potatoes, yum!) was on at least a third of the tables, so I don’t think I missed the ultimate experience dining with my seafood-hating husband.  Seems likely to get a return visit post-pregnancy.

Sketch Burger: Everything was very tasty, but we had a burger, salad, fries, shake and a soda, and spent more than $30.  I probably will not be back.

The Arista
Image of the Arista, courtesy of Robyn Lee

Paesano’s: OMG.  Everything you have heard about Paesano’s is true.  If you haven’t heard anything, let me spread to you the glorious word.  Their sandwiches are amazing, and I can’t believe I waited this long to go there.  Warning: No human being could eat a whole one at once.  Their magic: We reheated them in the oven for dinner, and they were JUST AS GOOD as hot at the shop.  I might almost say better, because amazement is such a delicious side dish. 

A couple of weeks later, I heard someone at Reading Terminal complaining about some lackluster sandwich they had just eaten, saying, “And I could have spent that money getting a sandwich at Paesano’s!”  I am with you 100 percent, sir.  If they got Paesano’s to open a location in Reading Terminal Market, it could truly seize the title of sandwich mecca.  Kick that sushi bar out of center court.  Reading Terminal, your destiny is waiting!

For more 10 second reviews, check out my Winter Wrap-up (Part 1 and Part 2).

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under Helen dine wrapup at 11:58pm  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/945483354/spring-summer-restaurant-wrap-up
August 9, 2010

Greensgrow CSA Week 11

week 11 basket

  • Nectarines  - Beechwood Orchards, Biglerville, PA
  • Cantaloupe - Lancaster County, PA
  • Zucchini - Lancaster County, PA
  • Spinach - Graiff Farms, Newfield, PA
  • Kale - Flaim Farms, Vineland, PA
  • Heirloom Tomatoes - Rineer Family Farms, Lancaster, PA
  • Cabbage - Lancaster County, PA
  • Red, White and Blue Potatoes - Lancaster Farm Fresh, Lancaster, PA
  • Fresh Basil (and it’s purple!)
  • Fresh Mozzarella - Mancuso’s Cheese Shop, Philadelphia, PA
  • Eggs

Last week, we hit the point where every single dish or meal I ate was enhanced by some fresh CSA goodie.  Let me particularly rave about the Boltonfeta, which found its way into salads, pastas and my hand.  It was excellent!  Seek some out if you can; Greensgrow is pretty good about stocking the CSA cheeses in their dairy case for all to buy. Also, I think basil is my favorite CSA herb.  Not only is it nice to drop in all kinds of things, it makes a lovely little nosegay on your counter — makes your kitchen smell so summery!

This week, I have reached the zen of CSA.  Whatever Bryan suggests sounds good to me.  He sees potatoes, he wants a roast chicken.  Sure, bring it on! Mozzarella and tomatoes for a pizza?  Love it!  I guess I’m saying I’m out of creative juices for using my basket. Except, of course, kimchi.  I love it, and I have no other real interest in cabbage. If it’s a total bust, I’ve lost nothing except possibly a layer of skin due to chili powder contact.  Please offer me your advice or your Korean mothers now.  I bet I need it.

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under Helen csa 2010 at 10:12pm  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/929692819/greensgrow-csa-week-11
August 4, 2010

The Politics of the Plate

Like many of you who have an interest in food, I read lots of food blogs.  I love seeing different people’s takes on local restaurants, different dishes, things to try.  But my favorite food blog nowadays isn’t about the how-tos, it’s about the whys.  Barry Estabrook’s Politics of the Plate is, in short, about the ethics of what we eat. 

Estabrook was a contributing editor at Gourmet magazine, and has written for all the biggies.  He won a James Beard award this year for his article about labor abuses in the Florida tomato industry.  From the obvious topics like overfishing and superweeds, to more esoteric choices like natural corks for wine bottles (he’s for them), his twice-weekly posts always make me think about the issues behind the food.

Even if your RSS reader is oversubscribed in the food department, this is is not your typical food blog. I’d definitely recommend checking out The Politics of the Plate, or following Barry Estabrook on Twitter.

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under Helen blogs at 12:47am  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/901413551/the-politics-of-the-plate
July 26, 2010

Greensgrow CSA Week 9

When does the summer share hit its stride?  When I have a big bowl of stone fruits constantly on my counter!

week 9

  • Shiro Plums  - Beechwood Orchards, Biglerville, PA
  • White Freestone Peaches - Beechwood Orchards, Biglerville, PA
  • Tomatoes - Linvilla Orchards, Media PA
  • Cucumbers - Lancaster County
  • Eggplant - Viereck Farms, Swedesboro, NJ
  • Basil - Flaim Farms, Vineland, PA
  • Yellow Onions - Lancaster County
  • Green Bell Peppers (a substitution for Jalapeños - Lancaster County)
  • Pasta - Superior Pasta, Philadelphia PA
  • Boltonfeta Feta Cheese - Hidden Hills Dairy, Everett, PA
  • Amish-style butter

Bryan and I were at a fab wedding this weekend, so Bryce and Stephanie were kind enough to grab our share.  Stephanie offered to swap, and I happily offloaded my eggplant.  In return, I got 2 bell peppers, 4 plums, one tomato and two peaches.  When Bryan heard, he said, “I thought you like Steph.  Why are you taking advantage of her like that?”  Though she had a good reason (travel), I did feel like I was making out like a bandit on that swap!

 Gloria sent a sack of homegrown jalapeños today, so I didn’t have time to get too sad about this week’s substitution.  The bell peppers are headed for roasting, though.  Like Marisa, I’ve hit my limit on crunching through raw peppers for this summer.  Meanwhile, Bryan’s in CSA hog heaven — dill pickles last share (which inspired me to make my own pickles from the carrots and zucchini), and fresh cucumbers this one!  We may never kiss again.

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under csa 2010 Helen at 10:23pm  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/863976310/greensgrow-csa-week-9
July 21, 2010

Zavino Pizza and Wine Bar

zavino

I lived on 13th Street for 5 years, so I feel a warmth in my heart every time another great neighborhood spot opens.  I may not live there anymore, but it still feels like my own.  Zavino is a far cry from the greasy tables of Mama Angelina’s and the 13th St. Pizza counter of my day.

caprese

The menu has 4 sections: veggies, seasonal specials, meats and cheeses, and pizza. It being the height of the season right now, both the veggies and seasonal specials are wonderful.   They love to pair a vegetable with a fruit (as do I) and that is perfect at this time of year.  Most of the seasonal specials I have ordered involve mozzarella.  Last week, this was pillowy slices of burrata, for those days when fresh mozzarella isn’t quite indulgent enough.  If you are cheese resistant, the specials usually include at least one pasta dish daily, pizza specials, salads, and other little things they feel like sticking in there.  (all veggies $6, specials $6-$15)

pizza

(Kennett pizza.  I can only apologize for the quality of this photo; the light was fading.)

The pizzas are my preferred crust type — not paper-thin, practically a flatbread; not overly-thick, “did I get a fancy Boboli?” — but a thin crust, with a nice bit of chew on the ends.  The oven is hot, hot, hot, as you will discover heading to the bathroom, so there’s a nice blackening bubbling going on with the crust.  All 3 pizzas I have tried have been lovely, but I think the Sopressata, with pickled onions, olives and Claudio’s mozzarella, is my favorite. ($9-$14)

On my last visit, I also saw several of their meat/cheese/veggie tasting boards ($18) go by, and was regretful each time that I had not ordered one.  But, I’ve found that for two people, a veggie, special, and pie were the perfect amount of food. If you’re feeling ambitious, I did see several pizza fans finish off their own!

They have plenty of wine choices, all available by the glass, and their seasonal cocktails looked tempting.  (Root beer float with ROOT and cream soda? Um, yum!)  But Zavino, you won my heart with one simple move.

,housemade soda

This is one of Zavino’s tasty housemade sodas. It is $5, a perfect size for sharing, and available flavors vary by day.  The lemon-lime is wonderfully tart.  The strawberry had nice fresh strawberry flavor.  None of them are super sweet.  Trey Popp informed me (via Restaurant Club) that they even fizz the water in-house.  You know what stinks about being pregnant?  Ordering iced tea all the time.  You know who feels my pain?  Zavino.  On behalf of the preggie sisterhood, I thank you for your delightful non-alcoholic options. 

Zavino
112 South 13th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107-4532
(215) 732-2400

Zavino is open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week; late-night Friday and Saturday.

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under Helen dine at 12:00am  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/839193911/zavino-pizza-and-wine-bar
July 17, 2010

Cowboy Cake

After poaching apricots last week, I confess.  I was turned around on apricots.  Though I’m still not a fan of eating them straight out of hand, they were quite delightfully tart and juicy when cooked.  So, when the week 7 basket had more apricots, I was actually pretty excited.

right

Rewind to last summer.  I made peach upside-down cake, then promptly remade it with apples instead.  The peach cake was yummy, but in case you didn’t already know this about me, I mostly eat cake for breakfast.  (That is: It’s not the only thing I eat for breakfast, but that’s when I’m most likely to eat cake.)  The peaches and brown sugar were just too tooth-achingly sweet first thing in the morning.  

The tartness of the poached apricots made me think they would be a perfect substitute.  And I wanted to look for alternate upside-down cake recipes that didn’t involve beating egg whites separately.  Call me a sucker for a gimmick, but when I saw this recipe for an apricot cake in a cast iron skillet, I immediately announced to Bryan, “I’m going to make a cowboy cake!”

It’s really, insanely delicious.  The salt in the brown sugar really highlights the caramelly aspects of the topping, and the apricots are exactly what I’m looking for in a sweet-but-not-too-sweet cake.  And it’s so cute!  (Bryan has declared to me that no cowboy worth his boots would make this cake, and that just because something is cooked in a cast-iron pan does not mean it could be made on an open fire.  He is no longer invited to eat my cowboy cake.)

cowboy cake

Cowboy Cake (Apricot Upside-Down Cake)

adapted from Gourmet Magazine’s Fresh Apricot Upside-Down Cake

For topping

  • 1 stick unsalted butter
  • 3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 10 to 15 small fresh apricots, halved lengthwise and pitted
  • 1/2 tsp kosher salt (or 1/4 tsp table salt)

Preheat oven to 375.  Melt the butter in a 10” cast iron skillet over medium heat on your stovetop.  When foam has subsided, mix in the salt.  Mine never really dissolved, but stir it up for a while.  When you’re satisfied the salt is evenly distributed, lower the heat to low, and sprinkle the brown sugar over the butter, trying to achieve a uniform layer.  After 3 minutes undisturbed, arrange the apricots around the pan.
For cake

  • 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 2 large eggs at room temperature
  • 3/4 cup buttermilk

Mix flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl.

Beat together butter, sugar, and vanilla in a large bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed until pale and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, then beat until mixture is creamy and doubled in volume, 2 to 3 minutes.

Reduce speed to low and add flour mixture in 3 batches, alternating with buttermilk, beginning and ending with flour.  Beat until just combined.

Gently spoon batter over apricots and spread gently to make an even layer.

Bake cake in middle of oven until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 30 to 45 minutes. (Mine was done really quickly!)

cowboy cake slice

Wearing oven mitts, immediately invert a large plate over skillet and, keeping plate and skillet firmly pressed together, invert cake onto plate. Carefully lift skillet off cake and, if necessary, replace any fruit that is stuck to bottom of skillet. Cool to warm or room temperature.

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under Helen cook at 12:28am  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/822244331/cowboy-cake
July 10, 2010

Greensgrow CSA Week 7

yum yum yum

Oh yum!  Oh heaven!  Look at this beautiful array, with nary a kale leaf or beet in sight! 

  • Apricots  -  Eden Garden Farm, Lancaster, PA
  • Peaches -  Fifer Orchards, Wyoming, DE
  • Blueberries - Columbia Farms, Hamilton, NJ
  • Zucchini - Flaim Farms, Vineland, NJ
  • Tomatoes (from a selection of 5 choices)
  • I swapped my golden beets for those lovely looking carrots!
  • Corn on the Cob - Lancaster County, PA
  • Green Peppers - Viereck Farms, Woolwich, NJ
  • Pickles - Greensgrow Farm
  • Daisy - Calkins Creamery (from a selection of at least 10 cheeses)
  • Eggs

It was POURING rain and miserable when I went to pick up the CSA, so three cheers for the staffers who were out there manning the stand, keeping the bins full and the tents up. 

But woe to the CSA members who showed up without their flood gear.  Thankfully, I invested in a pair of wellies a few months ago, so I was cool with the monster puddles in high traffic areas, but that “waterproof” jacket I was wearing?  Today reconfirmed my need for a replacement.  :)

This week also was a test of the substitution emergency response system (did that ever get used on TV?  I hated those tests!) that Erik mentioned when we spoke last week.  The weather is playing havoc with crops — we have corn already!  So, carrots got subsituted with a selection of carrots, turnips, radishes, eggplants and tomatoes.  Talk about a grab bag for everyone.  I just got swap box lucky to come home with my two top picks, carrots and tomatoes.

So, now that my heart has been warmed to apricots (at least in their cooked form), who has a recipe to suggest for the 20 or so I brought home this week?

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under Helen csa 2010 at 8:55pm  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/795627577/greensgrow-csa-week-7
July 7, 2010

Poached Apricots

One of my favorite things about being a CSA member is the freedom to experiment.  When I get something in the basket that is not a particular favorite of mine, I think, “Well, at least I don’t have to worry about how it turns out!”  If the dish is delicious, great.  If it’s terrible, well, I didn’t like it that much to start with!  (See: roasting peppers, watermelon salad and watermelon limeade)

poaching apricots

I have strong feelings when it comes to fruit, and clearly ranked preferences.  To me, apricots don’t make the cut.  They just aren’t juicy.  Thus, I was free to cook with abandon!  But the lack of love also meant I wasn’t interested in tackling a tart.  Enter poaching.  It takes 5 minutes.  I had the ingredients.  (Oh, who am I kidding?  This is always my recipe selection process, whether I like the main item or not.)  

In the name of science and your taste buds, I made two batches.  One used simple syrup.  One used fabulous Egyptian honey, courtesy of Cybèle!  I was originally inspired by this recipe, which features greek yogurt.  Since I love yogurt and honey, I was sure that one would be the tastier.  In the end, my personal preference?  I’d use the simple syrup.  Turns out I like my honey straight. 

Poached Apricots

  • 4 or more apricots (just don’t crowd them in the pan)
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1/2 cup sugar or 1/4 cup honey
  • half a vanilla pod, scraped
  • 4-8 lightly smashed cardamom pods (optional)

In a small saucepan, heat water, sugar/honey, vanilla and cardamom pods on medium-high heat, until all the sweetener is dissolved.  Halve the apricots, removing the pits.  Reduce the heat to a light simmer, and put the apricots in the pan. 

Poach for 2 to 5 minutes, turning once.  Don’t overpoach!  (The apricots will fall apart if you do.)  How do you know how long to poach for?  The drier the apricot, the longer you should go, I noticed.

Remove the apricots from the poaching syrup.  Raise the heat again, and reduce the syrup until it’s at least twice as thick.  Pour some of the thickened syrup on the apricots.  (Put the rest in a jar.  Use it to make yourself cocktails.)

Eat warm, or stick it in the fridge and eat whenever.  Try not to drip syrup all over yourself when you do.  And now I’m actually kind of looking forward to the apricots coming in this week’s basket! 

Comments (View) so far. Add your comment!   |   Filed under Helen cook at 11:59pm  
URL: http://phillyfoodie.com/post/783736175/poached-apricots